August 13th, this is a day to remember: in addition to having achieved another mythical place, we have also reached the Terzano peak, a major milestone for our project at an altitude of almost 5500 meters! Certainly, if compared with the giants that surround us, all over the fateful “eight thousands” as the K2 and Broad Peak, our peak appears modest. Yet, the technical difficulty and the importance of the place gave us a taste of its own.
We leave the base camp at Concordia at 2:00 am in the middle of the night, with our three high altitude porters and Ghulam Hassan, our mountain guide. For three hours we walk across an unreal landscape, illuminated by the moon light, to meet at 5:00 the base of the mountain. Just before we contacted by radio Rassul, our chef we left at the base camp, to inform him that we are on the verge of climbing towards the summit and plan a second radio appointment for the next contact at 7:00 am.
Just before starting our climb we take some video shots with Paolo Aralla, who follows us everywhere to collect shootings for the official documentary. Then, we are on the way on the steep slope for the slow and arduous ascent to the top. We reach the saddle after a long cross on a very steep scree and some rock hopping. Now just a wall separates us from the rocky peak, a wall that is very exposed and doesn’t allow to secure our ropes; Ghulam, instead, boldly gets over and is able to attach a rope that allows us to continue safely.
At 11:30 we reach the top, tired but happy to be able to reach another mythical place in the history of exploration of these places. We are literally moved, in contemplating the breathtaking view from this summit that Massimo Terzano achieved eighty years before us, to take a splendid panoramic image at 270 ° of Concordia, which is still used today by glaciologists to investigate on the dynamics of glaciers, even related to climate changes.
Today we came here for this very purpose, to repeat this important image and give it the scientific community to improve our understanding of the mechanisms that guide the lives of glaciers. Slowly, painfully, I begin the ritual of photography with the Linhof Master Technika; I choose 4×5 inches plates and start to scan the horizon making bracketing of three images for each frame of the puzzle, to be sure to get the correct exposure.